Nezvakasikwa, zvakasvibirira, zvine hutano uye zvakachengeteka cosmetics zvine zvirimwa zvakatorwa zvinokwezva kutarisisa kwakawanda, kuvandudzwa kwezvinhu zvinoshanda kubva kune zviwanikwa zvezvirimwa uye kuvandudzwa kwezvakachena zvechisikigo zvizorwa zvave imwe yeanonyanya kushanda madingindira mukusimudzira indasitiri yezvizorwa. Kuvandudzazve zviwanikwa zvechirimwa hakusi kungodzoreredza nhoroondo, asi kusimudzira tsika dzechiChinese, kubatanidza dzidziso dzechinyakare dzemishonga yechinyakare yeChinese, uye kushandisa tekinoroji yemazuva ano yebiochemical kugadzira mhando nyowani dzezvizoro zvakabva kuchirimwa, kuitira kusimudzira sainzi uye kuchengeteka. natural cosmetics. Zvigadzirwa zvemakemikari zvinopa zvinhu zvakasvibirira. Mukuwedzera, zvinomera zvezvirimwa zvinoshandiswa zvakanyanya mumishonga, zvokudya zvinowedzera, zvokudya zvinoshanda, zvinwiwa, zvizoro uye mamwe minda.
Plant Extracts(PE) inoreva zvirimwa zvine biological mamorekuru madiki uye macromolecules semuviri mukuru wakaumbwa nechinangwa chekuparadzanisa uye kuchenesa chimwe chete kana zvimwe zvinoshanda mumidziyo yezvirimwa nemuviri, makemikari uye zvipenyu. Cosmetics inogadzirwa nezvinomera zvinomera sezvishandiso zvinorimwa zvine zvakawanda zvakanakira zvichienzaniswa neyechinyakare cosmetics: inokunda kukanganisa kwechinyakare zvizorwa zvinotsamira pamakemikari synthetics, zvichiita kuti chigadzirwa chive chakachengeteka; zvikamu zvechisikigo zviri nyore kubatwa neganda, zvichiita kuti chigadzirwa chiwedzere kushanda uye mhedzisiro yacho inonyanya kukosha; basa racho rakakurumbira, nezvimwewo.
Kusarudza iyo chaiyo chirimwa chekudyara uye kuwedzera huwandu chaihwo hwechirimwa chinobviswa kune zvigadzirwa zvekuzora zvinogona kuwedzera mhedzisiro yacho. Basa guru rezvimedu zvezvirimwa mune zvekuzora ndezvi: kunyorova, anti-kuchembera, kubvisa freckle, kudzivirira kwezuva, antiseptic, nezvimwewo, uye zvinomera zvezvirimwa zvakasvibira uye zvakachengeteka.
Moisturizing effect
Zvinhu zvinonyorovesa muzvizoro zvinonyanya kuitwa nenzira mbiri: imwe inowanikwa nemvura-yekuvhara maitiro ekugadzira hydrogen zvisungo pakati peanonyorovesa agent uye mvura molecules; imwe yacho ndeyokuti mafuta anoumba firimu yakavharwa pamusoro peganda.
Izvo zvinonzi moisturizing cosmetics zvizoro zvine zvinyoro zvinonyorovesa kuchengetedza hunyoro hweiyo stratum corneum kudzoreredza kupenya uye elasticity yeganda. Moisturizing cosmetics inonyanya kugoverwa mumhando mbiri maererano nemaitiro avo: imwe ndeyokushandisa mvura-inochengetedza zvinhu zvinogona kusanganiswa zvakasimba nehunyoro pamusoro peganda kunyorovesa stratum corneum, inonzi moisturizing agents, zvakadai seglycerin; imwe yacho ichinhu chisinganyungudika mumvura, A layer ye lubricating film inoumbwa pamusoro peganda, iyo inoshanda sechisimbiso kudzivirira kurasikirwa kwemvura, kuitira kuti stratum corneum ichengetedze humwe hunyoro hwehunyoro, hunonzi emollients kana maconditioners, akadai sepetrolatum, oiri, uye wakisi.
Kune akati wandei zvirimwa muchirimwa zvine mhedzisiro ye hydrating uye moisturizing, senge aloe vera, gungwa remuorivhi, chamomile, nezvimwe, zvese zvine hunyoro hwekunyorova.
Anti-aging effect
Nekuwedzera kwezera, ganda rinotanga kuratidza mamiriro ekukwegura, ayo anonyanya kusanganisira kuderedzwa kwe collagen, elastin, mucopolysaccharide uye zvimwe zviri mukati meganda kune zvakasiyana-siyana, midziyo yeropa inopa ganda chikafu atrophy, elasticity yeropa retsinga. rusvingo runoderera, uye ganda epidermis zvishoma nezvishoma rinopera. Bulging, subcutaneous mafuta kuderedzwa, uye kutaridzika kwemakwinya, chloasma uye zera mavara.
Parizvino, zvidzidzo zvekare pamusoro pezvinokonzeresa kuchembera kwevanhu zvakapfupisa zvinhu zvinotevera:
Imwe ndeyekuwedzera uye kuchembera kwemahara radicals. Mahara radicals maatomu kana mamorekuru ane maerekitironi asina kupetwa anogadzirwa nehomolysis yecovalent bond. Vane huwandu hwekuita kwemakemikari uye vakawana peroxidation ine unsaturated lipids. Lipid peroxide (LPO), uye chigadzirwa chayo chekupedzisira, malondialdehyde (MDA), inogona kuita nezvinhu zvakawanda mumasero mapenyu, zvichiita kuti kuderedzwa kwebiofilm permeability, kukuvadzwa kwemamorekuru eDNA, uye kufa kwesero kana kuchinja.
Chechipiri, iyo UVB neUVA mwaranzi muchiedza chezuva inogona kukonzera ganda kupenya. Ultraviolet radiation inonyanya kukonzera kukwegura kweganda kuburikidza nenzira dzinotevera: 1) kukanganisa kuDNA; 2) cross-linking ye collagen; 3) kuderedzwa kwekudzivirira kwekudzivirira nekuita kuti inhibitory nzira ye antigen-inosimudzira mhinduro; 4) chizvarwa chekunyanya kushandiswa kwemahara radicals inopindirana nemhando dzakasiyana-siyana dze intracellular 5. Inodzivisa zvakananga basa re epidermal Langerhans masero, zvichiita kuti photoimmunosuppression uye kuderedza simba rekudzivirira kweganda. Uye zvakare, isiri-enzymatic glycosylation, metabolic kusagadzikana, uye matrix metalloproteinase kuchembera kuchakanganisawo kukwegura kweganda.
Zvirimwa zvakatorwa seyakasikwa elastase inhibitors yanga iri nyaya yekutsvagisa mumakore achangopfuura, senge Scutellaria baikalensis, Burnet, Morinda citrifolia mhodzi, Moringa, Shuihe, Forsythia, Salvia, Angelica zvichingodaro. Mhedzisiro yechidzidzo ichi inoratidza kuti: Salvia miltiorrhiza extract (ESM) inogona kukurudzira kutaura kwefilaggrin mune yakajairika keratinocytes yemunhu uye AmoRe Ganda, iro rinogona kuwedzera basa rekusiyanisa epidermal uye hydration, uye kuita basa mukuramba kuchembera uye kunyorova. ; kubva muzvinodyiwa zvinodyarwa Bvisa inoshanda anti-yemahara radical DPPH, uye isa kune yakakodzera zvigadzirwa zvekuzora, nemhedzisiro yakanaka; Polygonum cuspidatum inobvisa ine imwe inhibitory mhedzisiro pane elastase, nekudaro anti-kuchembera uye anti-wrinkle.
Freckle
Musiyano weruvara rweganda remuviri wemunhu kazhinji zvinoenderana nezviri mukati uye kugoverwa kwe epidermal melanin, kutenderera kweropa kwedermis, uye ukobvu hwe stratum corneum. Kusviba kweganda kana kuumbwa kwemavara matema kunonyanya kukanganiswa nekuunganidzwa kwehuwandu hwe melanin, ganda oxidation, keratinocyte deposition, kushata kweganda microcirculation, uye kuunganidzwa kwechepfu mumuviri.
Mazuvano, mhedzisiro yekubvisa freckle inonyanya kuwanikwa nekukanganisa kuumbwa uye kuwanda kwe melanin. Imwe yacho ndeye tyrosinase inhibitor. Mukushandura kubva ku tyrosine kuenda kudopa uye dopa kuenda kudopaquinone, ese ari maviri anogadziriswa ne tyrosinase, iyo inodzora zvakananga kutangwa uye kumhanya kwe melanin synthesis, uye inoona kana matanho anotevera anogona kuenderera.
Kana zvinhu zvakasiyana-siyana zvichiita pa tyrosinase kuti iwedzere basa rayo, melanin synthesis inowedzera, uye kana basa re tyrosinase rakadzivirirwa, melanin synthesis inoderera. Zvidzidzo zvakaratidza kuti arbutin inogona kuvharidzira kuita kwe tyrosinase munzvimbo yekusangana isina melanocyte toxicity, ichivharira synthesis yedopa, uye nekudaro inhibit kugadzirwa kwe melanin. Vatsvagiri vakadzidza makemikari emukati mune dema tiger rhizomes uye nekuchena kwavo mhedzisiro, vachiongorora kutsamwa kweganda.
Mhedzisiro yetsvagiridzo inoratidza kuti: pakati peiyo 17 yakasarudzika makomisheni (HLH-1～17), HLH-3 inogona kutadzisa kuumbwa kwe melanin, kuitira kuti iwane mhedzisiro yekuchena, uye iyo yakatorwa ine yakaderera kutsamwa kweganda. Ren Hongrong et al. vakaratidza kuburikidza nekuedza kuti iyo perfume lotus doro inobvisa ine yakakosha inhibitory mhedzisiro pakuumbwa kwe melanin. Serudzi rutsva rwechirimwa-yakagadzirwa whitening agent, inogona kusanganiswa mukrimu yakakodzera uye inogona kugadzirwa mukuchengetedza ganda, anti-kuchembera uye kubvisa freckle. Functional Cosmetics.
Kune zvakare melanocyte cytotoxic agent, senge endothelin antagonists anowanikwa mune zvakasvibirira zvezvirimwa, izvo zvinogona kukwikwidza kuvharira kusungwa kwe endothelin kune melanocyte membrane receptors, inhibit kusiyanisa uye kupararira kwe melanocytes, kuitira kuti inhibit iyo Ultraviolet mwaranzi inokonzera chinangwa che melanin. production. Kuburikidza nemiedzo yesero, Frédéric Bonté et al. yakaratidza kuti itsva Brassocattleya orchid extract inogona kunyatsodzivisa kuwanda kwema melanocytes. Kuiwedzera kune yakakodzera cosmetic formulations kune zviri pachena mhedzisiro pakuchena kweganda uye kupenya. Zhang Mu et al. yakabudiswa uye yakadzidza Chinese herbal extracts yakadai seScutellaria baicalensis, Polygonum cuspidatum neBurnet, uye zvigumisiro zvakaratidza kuti zvinyorwa zvavo zvinogona kudzivisa kupararira kwesero kusvika kune zvakasiyana-siyana, zvinodzivisa zvakanyanya basa re intracellular tyrosinase, uye kuderedza zvakanyanya intracellular melanin content, kuitira kuti zvibudirire. mhedzisiro yekucheneruka kwefreckle.
kudzivirira zuva
Kazhinji kutaura, sunscreens inowanzoshandiswa muzvizoro zvezuva zvakakamurwa kuva mapoka maviri: imwe inonzi UV absorbers, iyo inosanganiswa nehupenyu, yakadai seketone; imwe yacho ndeye UV shielding agents, ndiko kuti, sunscreens yemuviri, yakadai seTiO2, ZnO. Asi marudzi maviri aya emishonga yezuva anogona kukonzera kushatirwa kweganda, kusawirirana kweganda, uye kuvhara maburi eganda. Nekudaro, zvidyarwa zvakawanda zvechisikigo zvine maitiro akanaka ekunyura pamwaranzi yeultraviolet, uye zvisina kunanga kusimbisa kuita kwezuva kwezvigadzirwa nekudzikisa kukuvadzwa kwemwaranzi kunokonzerwa nemirairo yeultraviolet paganda.
Uye zvakare, izvo zvinongedzo zvezuva muzvinyorwa zvezvirimwa zvine zvakanakira kushoma ganda kutsamwisa, photochemical kugadzikana, kuchengetedzeka uye kuvimbika kana ichienzaniswa neyechinyakare makemikari uye emuviri sunscreens. Zheng Hongyan et al. yakasarudza matatu echisikigo chirimwa machuru, cortex, resveratrol uye arbutin, uye akadzidza chengetedzo uye UVB uye UVA mhedzisiro yezvizoro zvemushonga wezuva kuburikidza nemiedzo yevanhu. Mhedzisiro yekutsvagisa inoratidza kuti: mamwe masikirwo ezvirimwa anotorwa anoratidza yakanaka UV kudzivirira maitiro. Nhungamiro uye vamwe vakashandisa tartary buckwheat flavonoids semidziyo yekudzidza masikirwo ezuva eflavonoids. Chidzidzo chacho chakawana kuti kushandiswa kweflavonoids kune chaiwo emulsions uye kusanganiswa nemuviri uye makemikari sunscreens zvakapa nheyo yezvinyorwa zvekushandiswa kwezvirimwa zvezuva muzvizoro mune ramangwana.
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Nguva yekutumira: Jul-12-2022